Make life easy!
Make sure you have what you need before you start.
If you need to order new supplies when you already started, it will take more time to finish the job.
And we all love to braaappp more and wrench less, no?
Step 1: Order what you might need:
- Special tool block the crankshaft (partsnumber: #0113080802)
- The right socket to remove the spark plugs
- Gaskets for the headers (if you're not sure how old/ripped your current ones are, best to order it)
- Feeler gauges, so you can measure the clearance
- Make sure you know what the valve clearance should be
a little hint:
| 0.25 - 0.30 - exhaust |
| 0.10 - 0.15 - intake |
Step 2: Get naked!
Remove what needs to be removed.
- Side fairings
- Glove box
- Fuel tanks
Step 3: clean what needs to be cleaned while the intake is still covered.
Step 4: Remove all the rest
- Airfilterbox
-Throttle bodies
- Push some rags in the inlet of the cilinders, just to make sure nothing drops in the engine.
What goes in, must come out... Preferebly not by smashing it with the pistons
- Radiator (some say it isn't needed, but it made my life a lot easier).
- Remove the sparkplugs
- everything else that might get in the way ;-)
Step 5:
- Unbolt the rear or front (depends which cilinder goes first)
- clean the cover, inspect the rubber gasket (and the 4 little gaskets that hold the 4 top bolts).
Clean the gasket (when needed) or replace it (when needed).
- Remove the plastic bolt on the left hand side, so you can manually turn the crankshaft.
- Remove the bolt on the righthandside where the special tool will be inserted to block the crankshaft.
- Turn the crankshaft until the camshaft is in the correct position (keep in mind different position for the camshaft front/rear).
- insert the specialtool to block the crankshaft
- user the feeler gauges to measure the clearance
- Clearance within spec? go to step 7
- Clearance not within spec? go to step 6
Write down which feeler gauges do/don't fit for the correct intake/exhaust-valve).
Step 6:
- unbolt the camshaft bridge
- remove the camshaft (Take photos of the position of the camshaft)
- remove the bucket that sits on top of the shim (a magnet is very handy)
- Remove the shim that sits below the bucket (when using a strong magnet the shim might be attached to the bucket)
- Measure the shim and use your best math to know if the new shim needs to be bigger/smaller (or use the xls attached).
- Go buy the correct shim
- put the new shim in place
- repeat the steps for all the valves that are out of spec.
- Put back the buckets
- Mount the camshaft: MIND THE POSITION!
- Mount the camshaft bridge, make sure it sits flush before tightening
- first torque all bolts to 10nm (criss/cross pattern)
- the bigger bolts need to be torqued at 18nm afterward
- measure the clearance again to check if your changes are correct.
Step 7:
- Clean the surfaces where the gasket will sit
- put the gasket on the header
- put the header on the cilinder
- torque all bolts to 10nm
What were my pitfalls when I did this the first time?
- The previous mechanic used a shitload of liquid gasket to mount the headergaskets which was a mess.
- All rubber gaskets were worn out
- The gasket between the airfilterbox & cilinders were also damaged
- I switched the measurements in the xls between left/right and this messed up our logical brain
- I was to nervous